Kenya is vast and best known for the Masai Mara, but there is another area that offers the best of the African savannah and a great range of wildlife.
Tsavo is a huge wilderness in south-east Kenya. Split into Tsavo East and Tsavo West national parks, together it is the largest national park in Kenya, covering about 22,000 square kilometres (some 8,500 square miles), which makes it one of the largest game reserves in the world.
Tsavo is one of the least-crowded game areas in Kenya, a good place for quiet game viewing away from the tourist crowds.
As the largest protected area in Kenya, Tsavo is home to a wide range of wildlife, including the Big Five, crocodiles and waterbuck, along with 500 recorded bird species. One of its highlights, though, is the large population of red elephants, so called for the red dust they bathe in, which are seen often.
Red elephants and cubs at Tsavo
Like any major park, Tsavo has a good choice of places to stay, from camps to lodges, set in the wilderness with views of the animals and the wider park. Here are six of the best.
Ashnil Aruba Lodge
Known for its location, Ashnil Aruba Lodge sits in the heart of Tsavo East National Park, a couple of hours from the coast at Mombasa and a five-hour drive from Nairobi, on the banks of the Aruba Dam.
It has 46 rooms and 6 tents, in deluxe twin, double and triple categories, each in traditional African style with en-suite facilities.
The guest rooms at Ashnil Aruba Lodge
The lounge bar, modern with an African touch, is a relaxing place to sit with a drink overlooking the park, and the open-seating restaurant looks out over the dam, serving buffets of African, international and oriental dishes. The lodge arranges guided walks, talks on conservation, game drives and sundowners.
Man-Eaters Lodge
With fine views of Tsavo, Man-Eaters Lodge sits in Tsavo West National Park. Its name comes from the two infamous man-eating lions that killed many workers during the building of the Uganda Railway, from Mombasa inland, at the end of the 19th century.
The lodge has 31 en-suite tents facing the Tsavo River, each with direct views, modern amenities and locally made furniture that fits the surroundings.
The swimming pool at Man Eaters Lodge
The tents have private balconies where you can watch the animals that come to the river, such as elephants, gazelles and crocodiles. The lounge is rustically furnished with vintage pieces, and the Tsavo River restaurant offers continental cooking in a natural setting. By the rock pool, the Simba Mbili bar is a good place to watch wildlife over a drink.
Salt Lick Safari Lodge
Salt Lick Safari Lodge sits in the Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary, overlooking a waterhole and the Tsavo plains. It is one of the most photographed lodges in the world, thanks to its unusual design.
Its rooms and suites are spacious and raised on stilts, so you can watch the wildlife from your room, with panoramic views over the plains.
The unique Salt Lick Safari Lodge at night
The Bura restaurant looks out over the surrounding country and has live cooking stations, with Pan-African, Pan-Asian and Pan-European dishes. Activities include game viewing, night drives, walking safaris, traditional dance and music, and a reforestation programme.
Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge
Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge, in Tsavo West National Park, is a quiet retreat set against the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro, with green views towards the Chyulu Hills. It is a classic stone lodge.
It has 56 guest rooms, including five suites overlooking the waterhole or the hills, each with natural stone walls and locally inspired furnishings and art.
Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge
The central dining room and the open-air, rock-built bar make for a fine setting, and the lodge serves international and local dishes as well as safari-style meals. Activities include daily game drives, visits to Mzima Springs, bush dinners, bush breakfasts and hikes.
Satao Tented Camp
Overlooking a waterhole in the middle of Tsavo East National Park, this camp draws large numbers of animals.
It has 20 en-suite safari-style tents with private verandas, shaded by trees and set around the camp’s waterhole, positioned for constant views of the wildlife.
A safari style room at Satao Tented Camp
The camp serves a range of dishes to suit every guest: lunch al fresco under a 200-year-old tamarind tree, dinner in the restaurant. Along with game drives and sundowners, it takes guests to nearby sights such as Mudanda Rock and Lugard Falls.
Voi Wildlife Lodge
Set in elephant country in the savannah of Tsavo East, Voi Wildlife Lodge sits next to a waterhole that draws animals and birds, which makes wildlife easy to spot. It is well placed near the coast for anyone combining a safari with a beach stay.
Its 178 rooms, in the Baobab and Acacia wings, are locally decorated and well furnished, with views over Tsavo East and the Tsavo plains.
Guests enjoying at Voi Wildlife Lodge
The Tembo restaurant, built with local makuti thatch, looks out over the eastern Tsavo plains. There is also an outdoor pool, two bars, a spa, a gym, and activities such as badminton, volleyball and billiards.
Whether you prefer tents, lodges or bungalows, these hotels are worth considering on a trip to Tsavo.
If you loved reading this story, then subscribe to our blog here (it will ask to verify your email) to get inspiring travel stories and trivia delivered to your email. Stories about wildlife trivia, cultural experiences, curated luxury hotel lists, underrated places to travel, polar journeys and much more.
